Introducing new wet food

[fjm]

I would try in a separate dish at first - if they like it no problem, but if they don't and the food is mixed both have to be chucked.

I don't know about veal, but I don't think I would risk it.

[Mollycat]

Depends what it is about beef, it's a strong meat whereas veal is lighter than for example lamb and much more on a par with pork. If it's the species that is the issue then veal will be the same, if it's the richness of the meat then it should be fine. I do understand your reluctance to try though. Are they ok with lean pork? Turkey/chicken isn't a fair comparison because they are different species. Veal to beef is even more different than lamb to mutton but still the same animal.

On another note though I think in your position I would be giving different foods more time, depending how bad the reaction is or how much they refuse to eat it, obviously if they won't touch it then you have to try something different.

[Kay]

I feed two cats living in my garden, and have been trying to get them to eat the ground up type of tinned food, as they have mouth problems - and I hate the waste problem of pouches anyway - I have tried them on Feringa and Animonda Carne and Granitapet and Catz and Grau and a few more too, and they will only take a mouthful of any of them - I really don't know why

the most success I have had is adding some chicken, cooked in a slow cooker and finely chopped, to the shunned food - about half and half

[fjm]

Chicken makes most things better, my cats and dogs tell me! But I think the OP's cat can't/won't eat it?

[Mollycat]

Well, I know it's easier said than done, but perhaps rubbish food isn't really that bad. It does meet minimum standards, even if those standards are low, and it's wet which is positive. It may not be what you want for them but at this stage of triaditis surely something familiar that you know will be kept down and in long enough to reabsorb water and nutrients from has got to be a good thing. Just changing food can trigger upsets and not necessarily the food itself, in healthy cats let alone one with issues.

When I got Boo he was on raw, I spent £60 stocking up on the same food which he refused point blank. And so with lots of foods over the years. Neither of them would eat chicken, until Molly decided it was ok if it was a little bit spicy, and from there they progressed to eating it, cooked and raw. Once I discovered they would eat rare beef, pork sometimes raw sometimes cooked, turkey the same, sometimes warm only, I was a lot happier and their junk tins were supplemented with good protein. But the best foods in the world do them no good if they won't eat. In the end I just had to relax and accept compromises. I don't even like Molly having Dreamies but she gets some and that's her route to (finally) bonding with my partner.

Just as an aside, our dog won't eat if we stress about him not eating. I am dead set against giving treats before he has eaten his meal, but he is my partner's dog and he gives him a treat then the dog eats his food. I just have to accept it. If we don't put new food down because he hasn't eaten his last meal, he seems to go into starve mode, the opposite of what we would expect, that it would make him hungry for the next meal. We are not always in charge with animals.

[fjm]

I think it rather depends on how much variety they have had over the years. If their digestive systems are used to a wide range of foods they are much less likely to suffer upsets from a change of diet than if they have had just one formulation all their lives. And I am with you on getting more relaxed. I fed Tilly a carefully calculated raw and cooked diet, until she was diagnosed with CKD 18 months ago. Then I reformulated the home made food to be suitable for her, and she practically stopped eating. Weeks of experimentation later I found that she would eat the Pro Plan renal sachets and renal dry, and once she got back into the habit also eats a reasonable amount of the high protein home cooked. I avoided dry food for years, and still feel it is far from ideal, but I am now just glad to see her in good condition and not losing too much weight, and if it means there is a cat in the wash hand basin demanding I turn on the cold tap every time I try to wash my hands or clean my teeth that's fine!

[fjm]

If she is not vomiting that is very good news - it could simply be that everything is settling down and healing, thanks to the steroids. When Poppy was so very ill in the acute phase of liver failure I knew when she was feeling nauseous as she didn't want the lick of dog toothpaste that is their after-teeth-cleaning treat - now she encourages me up to the bathroom and bounces in expectation for it. As you say, the little things make such a difference.

If your cats have not had a lot of variety I would introduce the new food slowly - 10-15% of the total food on the first day, and increasing slightly every day. If after a few days there are no adverse effects you could perhaps try a little faster. I make a point of feeding mine a wide range when they are young, including human foods like eggs and sardines - that way there is always a meal in the cupboard.

[Mollycat]

Not sure I understand the teaspoon, I thought that was a teaspoon of the new wet added to the old wet and gradually increase the proportion? I have never had to do this so can't help with that. Mine have always eaten it or not eaten it and I've never had to introduce anything gradually. Well, except litter, but it got to a certain proportion and Madam refused to us it, another expensive experiment.

I love the comment about refusing to play the game, it's reassuring (to me) that my obese hyperthyroid cat on diet food has become post treatment a cured solid but normal cat on normal food, with a waist, a neck and everything!

Agree with fjm about introducing variety early though my last 5 cats have all been second-hand but luckily all with curious taste buds.

[fjm]

I would try one flavour for a week or two, and if that goes well introduce another in the same way as the first. If you are watching for intolerances as well as reaction to fat/richness levels almost any change of ingredients could trigger a reaction. Amongst things that are known to cause problems are carrageenan, often used as a thickener or emulsifier, and glycerin - neither are toxic in themselves but can cause digestive upset in some animals, so might be best to include them in your list of "things to avoid if possible".

[fjm]

Your call, I think. If she gobbles it and then regurgitates, or has a tummy ache, she may refuse to eat it in future. I would wait fie or six hours after the first portion and then offer a slightly larger one - perhaps just before bed. If all is still well in the morning a similar size for breakfast. But I know how it feels to have them keen to eat after refusing everything for ages - the temptation is to fill them to the brim while the going is good! Better to think in mouse size portions though, and go reasonably slowly.

[fjm]

Have you discussed Metronidazole with your vet? At the moment it is the only thing that is helping Poppy's digestive system. Vet said to use it for 24-76 hours as needed for its soothing action, rather than a full antibiotic course of 10 days. Might be worth asking about.

[fjm]

Poppy is taking metronidazole with steroids, and has a failing liver. It is used for infections and for some parasites, but is also known to have a generally soothing effect on the small intestine, and a few days on it gives her several further days of comfort. I am trying it in conjunction with Pro-texin prokolin sachets - too soon to say how effective the sachets are.

[Mollycat]

The Prokolin syringe does take a little getting used to but it's a good skill to master. If you think the cat size one is bad you should try as I did getting cat doses out of a dog size one, let's just say sense of humour and patience are required.

[fjm]

Took me ages to work out how to get just the right amount out of the syringes, and even then it is much easier squirting it onto food than straight into the mouth. At first I didn't realise the twizzly wheel controlled the dose, and got the stuff everywhere... After a bit of price comparison I bought the biggest available tubes and add just a dab to Poppy's meals when needed - the sachets are easier in some ways, although dosing is a bit haphazard. Too soon to say if they are having an effect, but I am at the try-anything-that-is-safe stage, as I suspect you are.